Fleas and Ticks are external parasites that are not only irritating, they can transmit serious diseases.  Fleas can transmit tapeworms and the bacteria that causes cat-scratch fever in humans.  Fleas can also cause life-threatening blood loss in severe cases.  Ticks can transmit numerous diseases to people and pets, such as Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.  Tick control not only prevents our pets from getting sick, it also protects humans by keeping live ticks out of our homes.

Current products available for killing fleas are highly effective, yet fleas continue to be a significant problem for many.  A single female flea can lay as many as 50 eggs per day, and these eggs fall off of your pet causing the majority of the flea population to be in the surrounding environment.  For this reason, cleaning pet bedding and vacuuming frequently along with year-round flea control for all pets in the home is the best course of action.  Pets that live exclusively indoors should also receive flea control.  If you feel your pet is flea free because you do not see them, you may be mistaken.  Finding live fleas can be difficult because our pets frequently lick them away, and fleas do not prefer human blood, so finding a flea on you is rare.

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitos.  They can infect dogs and cats, causing life-threatening heart and lung damage.  Heartworm disease is easily and inexpensively preventable with a monthly pill, however there are too many dogs that are unprotected.  In the past, heartworm disease was not as prevalent in our region, but according to the Companion Animal Parasite Council, the occurrence of heartworm in the northeast will be higher than in previous years.  If your pet becomes infected, treatment is very costly and can have significant complications.  The cost of a single treatment is more than multiple years of the monthly preventative pill.

Roundworms, Hookworms and Whipworms are very common intestinal parasites.  Your pet can become infected by ingestion of contaminated stool, soil and water or by licking contaminated paws and fur.  Indoor only pets can become infected with roundworms from commercial potting soil.  People can become infected by these parasites as well if good hygiene is not practiced.  Children are particularly vulnerable to infection if they play in areas that may be contaminated with animal feces such as dirt piles and uncovered sandboxes.    In animals, infection can cause intestinal upset or malnutrition.  In people, more serious disease can develop because the worms can enter other organs causing brain and liver damage or permanent blindness.  Luckily these parasites are easily killed with the proper medication.  The monthly heartworm pill that your dog should be on will also treat these nasty worms.  If you have children in your home, having your dog on monthly heartworm pills is a must to keep them and your pets healthy.

Unfortunately, there isn’t one product available to prevent all of the above parasites, so a combination of medicine is necessary.  For example, a topical preventative for killing fleas and ticks along with a heartworm pill every month will provide adequate control.  If you do not like the topical, there are other options as well.  As always, call your veterinarian to determine what is best for your own pet.  Currently, many drug manufacturers are offering discounts when their product is purchased only at an animal hospital.

View an interactive parasite risk map.  See what is happening in your neighborhood.  Click here

There are two types of zoonotic diseases that concrn pet owners: illnesses that can be transmitted from animals to humans – like leptospirosis – and diseases that infect both people and pets – like Lyme disease.  That’s why it is important to take precautions to protect both your family and your pet from zoonotic disease.

10 steps to help clients prevent zoonotic diseases

1. Schedule annual or biannual veterinary visits for your pet, which should include fecal examinations.
2. Keep your pet on year-round monthly parasite prevention, as recommended by your veterinarian.
3. Keep pets indoors or supervised to discourage hunting, and do not feed pets raw or undercooked meats.
4. Wash your hands frequently, especially after handling animals and working outdoors. Be sure your children wash their hands after playing outside.
5. Wash any wounds, even small nicks and cuts, promptly and thoroughly.
6. Clean cats’ litter boxes daily, wearing gloves, and always wash your hands immediately afterwards. (Though if you’re pregnant, you should avoid cleaning litter boxes altogether. Have someone else do it for you.)
7. Avoid approaching, touching, or handling stray animals.
8. Cover children’s sandboxes when they’re not in use.
9. Always wear gloves when gardening.
10. Protect yourself from ticks by covering your body with a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, and a hat. Check for ticks after hiking, playing, or working in tick-infested environments. Also consider using repellants.

We don’t need a large amount of stool, it is more important that it be fresh.  For most patients we are actually looking for the eggs produced by the parasites and if the sample is too old or too dry, the eggs will not be found.  Remember, some parasites are zoonotic, meaning that they are transmissible to humans, so we want to make sure the test is accurate.  Our Licensed Veterinary Technicians (LVT)  prepares the sample using a solution that makes the eggs float to the top and stick to the microscope slide.  Then they scan the slide looking for parasite eggs, protozoa, and bacteria.

Any time your pet has diarrhea, our LVTs will do the fecal exam in our lab so we can get answers sooner.  Samples brought in for routine parasite screening many times are sent to an outside lab and results are back to us the next day.

We are also able to screen for Lyme disease and several other tick and mosquito borne diseases in our lab using a small sample of blood.   These “snap” tests can be completed in about 10 minutes so results are obtained before you leave your appointment.

Fleas and ticks, those pesky disease carrying parasites, are best discovered by you.   A regular exam of your pet after playing outside to check for ticks and fleas is a must.  Using flea and tick preventatives from early spring until there is a snowpack in winter has become a necessity now.  As a reminder, there are deals right now so you can purchase almost all you need for the season.

Rabbits are highly social and are often happier if kept in groups of 2 or more.  However, if a rabbit is kept alone for extended periods, they can develop poor social skills leading to aggression or timid behavior if suddenly introduced to a new rabbit.  If you have one rabbit and are thinking of getting another, unfamiliar rabbits should be introduced gradually.  Place both rabbits’ housing adjacent to each other so the rabbits can see, smell and hear each other without being able to fight.  The time required for a successful and peaceful introduction varies tremendously.  Some rabbits will get along well within minutes, while others may require weeks or may not be able to be kept together at all.  Ideally, rabbits that are not littermates should be introduced when they are still young (6-12 weeks of age).

 Environment

 Rabbits should never be kept completely confined to a cage.  Exercise is vital for the rabbit’s health (they are designed to run and jump!).  If a rabbit is caged most of its life several physical and behavioral problems can occur, such as obesity, poor bone density, poor muscle tone, elimination problems, feet infections and many more concerns.  Rabbits should be allowed to roam and exercise for a few hours every day.  The easiest way to do this is to use exercise fencing panels sold for dogs to create a large, enclosed, safe space.  The fencing should be at least three feet high.  If you are going to allow your pet free access to your house, you need to bunny-proof it by blocking access to electrical cords or exits.

A cage can be used as a home base for part of the day when the rabbit is not exercising.  It should allow the rabbit to stand up on his hind legs without hitting the top, provide covered space to rest/hide and have space for a litter box.  Safer litter choices are paper pulp, straw, aspen bark, oats or peat moss.  Avoid clay litter, cedar shavings or pine.  The floor can be solid or wire (a combination of both is preferred).  Keep the cage in a well ventilated, cool area.  Avoid basements because the increased humidity can lead to respiratory disease.  The optimum temperature range for a rabbit is 60F to 70F.  If temperatures reach the upper 80s, fatal heat stroke can occur.  You can keep your rabbit cool on hot days by leaving a plastic milk jug filled with frozen water in the cage.

 Rabbits can be housed outdoors if they are provided with a shelter to protect them from rain, heat and cold.  Make sure the cage is secure from predators and kept clean so it won’t attract parasitic insects.  In the winter, use straw bedding in the sheltered area for insulation and make sure the water bowl is changed daily to prevent freezing.

Rabbits also require mental stimulation with various toys.  Since rabbits like to chew, wooden chew toys or unfinished unpainted wicker baskets are appreciated.  They like things that make noise such as hard plastic baby toys, jar lids, or empty cans.  Toilet paper rolls or small cardboard cartons with a treat hidden inside can provide fun.  They also like balls that can be nosed around.

Diet

Rabbits have digestive systems that are designed for high fiber diets.  Grass hay is one of the most important parts of your pet’s diet.  Grass hay (timothy, orchard grass or oat) should be provided at all times in your rabbit’s cage.  Legume hays (alfalfa or clover) can be used as a treat but not as a routine hay source as too much can lead to GI disorders or obesity.

Green foods are the next most important food in the rabbit’s diet.  Greens provide a variety of nutrients and water which promote healthy GI, kidney and bladder function.  Just a few options include broccoli, dandelions, brussel sprouts, kale, collard greens and carrot leaves.  Avoid iceburg and romaine lettuce because of its low nutritional content.  If your rabbit has never eaten greens, it is important to start her on hay first to make an appropriate change in the GI tract flora.

Commercial rabbit pellets should only comprise a small portion of the diet (10-20%).  When selecting a pellet, look for the following:

-18% or higher fiber

-2.5% or lower in fat

-16% or less in protein

-1% or less in calcium

-Do not buy pellet mixes that also contain seeds, fruits or nuts

-Buy pellets based on grass hays (timothy, orchard grass) NOT alfalfa

The amount of pellets to feed would be approximately ¼ cup per 4 lbs of body weight per day.

Water should be available at all times and changed daily.  Some rabbits prefer a drip bottle, some prefer a water bowl.  Do not use medications or vitamins in the water because rabbits may not drink water if the the taste or color is altered.  If you are feeding greens, water consumption may seem minimal, but this is normal because of the water consumed in the greens.

Vitamins and probiotics are not necessary for the healthy rabbit if fed a diet as described above.  In addition, rabbits do not need a salt or mineral block.

We all love to eat treats, and so do our pet rabbits.  Avoid commercial treat foods because they are loaded with starch and fat.  Below is a list of acceptable “treats.”  You can feed a total of 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day.

Apple, Alfalfa sprouts, Blackberries, Blueberries, Cactus fruit, Carrots, Cranberries, Peppers, Kiwi,  Mango, Melon, Papaya, Peach, Pear, Pineapple, Raspberries and Squash

Foods to avoid are those that contain high levels of starch and fat.  Examples of “Forbidden Foods” include Beans, Breads, Cereals, Chocolate, Corn, Nuts, Peas, Sugar, Seeds and Wheat.

Handling

The main thing to remember when picking up your rabbit is to always support the hindquarters to prevent serious spinal injuries.  Rabbit backbones are fragile and fracture easily.  Never pick up your rabbit by the ears.  It is best to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders or scoop under the chest with one hand and place your other hand under the back legs.

Medical Problems

Just like you dog or cat, pet rabbits can benefit from yearly physical exams.  Not only is it a chance for us to discuss basic care, but we can also discover medical conditions that can be detrimental to your pet.  Rabbits are naturally prey animals, so they often hide any signs of disease or discomfort.  A physical exam by a veterinarian may reveal treatable conditions that you may not have known were occurring.  Rabbits commonly suffer from dental disease, hairballs, urinary disease, gastrointestinal disease and skin conditions such as fleas or mites.  We can even discuss spaying or neutering your rabbit.

If you have a question about your pet rabbit or if you would like to schedule him/her for a physical exam, call our office at 655-3409!

Here is a link to an interactive chocolate toxicity scale.  It is fun to use but also shows how just a small amount of chocolate can be harmful, even fatal, to your dog.

http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2007/10/pets/chocolate-chart-interactive

Rabies is a deadly disease caused by a virus that attacks the central nervous system (brain and spinal cord).  Infected mammals can transmit rabies virus to humans and other mammals.  Rabies is almost always fatal once symptoms appear.

The first sign of rabies is usually a change in behavior. It may become unusually aggressive or tame.  The animals may lose its fear of people and natural enemies.  A wild animal may appear affectionate and friendly.  It may become excited or irritable and attack anything in its path.  Staggering, convulsions, choking, frothing at the mouth and paralysis are sometimes seen.  Infected animals usually die within one week after showing signs of rabies.

People are exposed to the rabies virus when an infected animal bites them.  Exposure may also occur if saliva from a rabid animal enters an open cut or mucous membrane (eyes. nose, mouth).  Baby animals that are young enough to be nursing on the mother can contract rabies through the mother’s milk, so don’t try to rescue those cute babies as they may be carriers.

New York State requires all pets to have their first Rabies vaccination between 12 and 16 weeks of age.   Your pet will receive the second vaccination within 1 year after the first. Subsequent booster vaccinations will be annually or every three years depending on the vaccine used.  If your pet is attacked by a wild animal, we strongly suggest having the Rabies vaccine boostered within 5 days of the exposure. Vaccinating your pets is the best way to protect not only them but you and your family also.

In New York State, if a pet bites a person and you wish to avoid euthanizing and testing it for rabies, it must be confined and observed for ten day.  If your pet is not up-to-date on its rabies shots, the ten day confinement must take place, at the owner’s expense at an appropriate facility.  If your pet is up-to –date, the county may allow the confinement to take place in your home.  You could also be facing fines up to $200 or more.

If your pet has not been vaccinated against rabies and is exposed to a confirmed or suspected rabid animal, the pet should be euthanized immediately.  If you are unwilling to euthanize your pet, the pet will be placed in strict isolation of 6 months with no human or animal contact.  Can you imagine a young puppy or kitten unable to play with you for 6 months?

The Cazenovia Animal Hospital hosts a rabies clinic every Saturday between 1 and 3 PM.  No appointment is necessary, just stop in.  If we have not vaccinated your pet for rabies before, please bring proof of prior vaccination. We have been providing the Saturday rabies clinics for many years because we know rabies is a threat in this area and this is the best way to protect your pets, you and your family.

Things You’ll Need

• 1 tsp. of Dawn dish-washing detergent
• 1 quart of 2 percent hydrogen peroxide
• 1/2 cup of baking soda
• Mixing bowl

 In a bowl, mix the detergent, peroxide and baking soda. Create a lather, and starting with your dogs head, wash towardshis back and end with the legs and feet. Be sure to completely cover all of the dogs body with the mixture, avoiding the eyes and nose. Rinse.

Repeat Step 2, but this time leave the mixture on a little longer. This will give it a chance to have a more potent effect. Once again rinse and towel dry your dog. It is not recommended at this time to use a heat source for drying. The deskunking mixture will unfortunately leave the skin and fur in a very dry condition. A heat source will cause even further drying of the skin.

Continue the process daily until the odor is removed. In about a week, you can give your dog a conditioning treatment for the dry skin. Applying a conditioning treatment during the process, will counteract its effectiveness.

Check your pet’s eyes to see if the skunk got spray in them. If it did your dog’s eyes will appear red. This sometimes causes temporary blindness that usually lasts from ten to fifteen minutes. Rinse your dog’s eyes with a saline solution or warm water to help relieve the eye irritation. Take your pet to the veterinarian if the dogs’ eyes continue to be red or irritated.

We do carry several products that help fight that lovely skunk odor.

Nature’s Miracle Skunk Odor  Remover is a great product.  You can use directly on the pet’s coat by saturating the hair and allowing to dry.  The natural enzymes will neutralize and eliminate odors from the source.  You can also put it in a spritzer bottle and respray your pet daily as needed.

We also have a full line of “pet odor” products which utilizes the neutralizing enzymes to help remove odors from your home.

Remember… pets can live longer, healthier lives if oral health care is managed and maintained throughout theirs.

Unchecked plaque in your pet’s mouth allows bacteria to flourish or overgrow, causing periodontal disease. These bacteria can enter the blood stream through lesions in a pet’s diseased gums. And it doesn’t always take advanced disease for this to happen. Once in the blood stream, the bacteria can travel throughout the body and potentially impact your pet’s organs.”

The formation of plaque on teeth leads not only to calculus or tartar buildup but also to gingivitis. And if gingivitis is left untreated, it will progress into more advanced periodontal disease. Anecdotal reports have suggested that chronic periodontal disease causes problems in the heart, kidneys, and possibly the liver. Recent studies have shown a correlation between oral disease and systemic diseases in people, and researchers now have a better understanding of how oral disease affects the systemic health of dogs and cats.

The bacteria in the oral cavity of a pet with periodontal disease can be released into the circulatory system and travel throughout the body. This can cause damage to cardiac tissue and lead to endocarditis. Studies have shown a link among bacteremias originating from oral infections.  There are also studies that link periodontal disease to an increase in insulin resistance. When bacteria invades kidneys, it damages glomerulus membranes, causing them to function improperly. Bacteria also can cause functional changes in the liver of dogs.

Because of periodontal disease’s affect on overall health, it’s more than a localized problem that leads to bad breath and tooth loss—it’s also the beginning of more severe systemic issues. By sharing this message, we can help you understand the importance of oral health, why we suggest  dental cleanings, and encourage homecare compliance, thereby ensuring a healthier life for your pet.

We utilize a state-of-the-art dental unit that uses air and water to create the vibration of our ultrasonic scaler.  This is safer and protects teeth from damage due to excessive vibration commonly found with older ultrasonic scalers. Our high speed dental drill allows us to section teeth and extract them in a safer manner so that nearby structures are not damaged by excessive force.  We have the ability to do crown resections, gingival (gum) flaps and other advanced dental treatments.

Once we have completed the procedure, your pet will be closely monitored until he is awake and steady on his feet.  We generally discharge your pet between 4:00PM and 5:30PM so they can be home and settle in for the evening with you.

A dental chart becomes part of the pet’s medical record.